Monday, July 28, 2008

More Beijingren from this Weekend

Why I love people watching here...


Cute little boy, playing with a camera and peeing on a napkin at the park...


At the lotus gardens


More me taking pictures of children without their parents knowing...


This one's mom noticed. Please note the crotchless, backless one-sie for easy access...Saves diaper money, I guess.


Lama Temple


Keeping cool

A Weekend Gen Wo de Pengyou.

Yun and Kara, a couple of my friends from Stanford, are in town for the week, so I had a lot of fun hanging out with them this weekend and exploring the last couple of main tourist sites in Beijing I hadn't yet visited including the Summer Palace and Lama Temple. Yun is Chinese, so her language skills were awesome to have around as we toured, and Kara is 6 feet tall and blond, so I think we might have set an all-time record for number of pictures asked for over the course of two days...


China: The only place that could care less if you climb all over their ruins. These are some fountains at the old Summer Palace.


Paddle Boat at the "new" Summer Palace


Tiananmen Square - newly embellished for the Olympics


Best "can I take a picture with you?" yet. This guy made us come get in front of the Olympic countdown clock with him and pose in the huddle, plus he had some rockin' shades...


Last night for dinner, we had Peking Duck - they basically bring you a whole duck and make several different dishes out of it. They even gave us an ID card for the duck :/.


140 points to the first person to name the movie being re-enacted here. (Hint: That's a duck head. Double hint: I named it Petie)

Saturday, July 26, 2008

It's a Zhongguoren eat Zhongguoren World Out There...

...Especially when it comes to getting Olympics tickets.
Phase 4 of Olympic ticket sales began on Friday. Officially, Phase 4 is the only phase during which tickets can be bought in person at the venue at which an event is taking place. Unofficially, this means half of China mobs every venue in town in a massive and desperate dogfight to get their hands on a limited number of remaining tickets. The full story can be read here: http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/olympics/2008-07/26/content_6879093.htm
EDIT: Here's an American version of the story - kind of interesting to compare. http://www.nbcolympics.com/destinationbeijing/news/newsid=155905.html#ticket+sale+starts+stampede+beijing

After a couple of failed attempts at obtaining tickets through other means, my group of friends decided to take on the Chinese to see if we couldn't come out with something that day. Since there were 30,000 people at the Bird's Nest (where tickets for the most popular sports were being sold), we decided to split up into two groups and go for soccer (my friends were dedicated enough to get up early and skip class to stake out a spot in line) and beach volleyball (which is not very popular at all in China, so we were able to go a bit later), at their respective venues. We got to the Beach Volleyball Park soon after Chinese class to find people huddled around a gate. We found out eventually that there had been a couple of thousand people there at 9 am who they were still processing, and not letting anyone else in until those were done. Finally, after about an hour and a half later, the word came that they were opening a gate.

I have never been in a mob like that ever in my life, and I pray that I never will be again. I'm not completely sure my feet were touching the ground and I nearly lost an arm as the PRC Police attempted to use the force of their bodies to mold a screaming (I forget the Chinese phrase for "Open the Gate!" but it was being chanted) amorphous pack of a couple of hundred people into a single file line (seriously, in China!? Not sure who ever thought that was going to be successfully maintained...) through a gate. Try to imagine 12 different Chinese men making at least 14 different points of contact with your rib cage in the 95 degree smelteringly humid heat (I'd say roughtly 110 when accounting for the body heat index). Good grief.



Waiting outside the gate. Smushed. Though this is before the main mob incident occurred.

However, we finally got some all day beach volleyball tickets for - this is the best part - 50 yuan. That's a grand total of $7.35, folks. Gotta love Chinese pricing. And since we were allowed to buy two tickets each, we each traded with our friends who had gone to the Worker's Stadium (and had an even more intense crowd experience), so we can hopefully all go to one of each.



But finally victorious...and definitely an experience in and of itself.

Friday, July 25, 2008

The Forbidden City and Beijing Zoo: Home of the (not so) Giant Pandas

The Olympics are coming, and Beijing is getting more and more crowded by the day, so the pressure to get all the sites to see checked off the list is building. So, this past weekend we put on our tourist hats and hit up the Forbidden City (home of the Chinese Emperor from the mid-Ming Dynasty through the end of the Qing Dynasty - if only I knew anything about Chinese history and hadn't had to look that up on Wikipedia just now!) and the Beijing Zoo. My observations: The Forbidden City is very, very big, and the famed "Giant" Pandas, at about 4.5 feet tall, are disappointingly NOT!


The Classic Forbidden City Shots...



Adorable? Yes. Giant? Not so much.

As it turned out, we (as white people) were more of an attraction at the zoo than the animals. The picture-taking requests are always frequent whenever I'm together with my blond roommate, but that day we were in particularly high photographic demand. After visiting the pandas, for example, I'm sitting on a bench with my friends, minding my own business, when I look up to see what was casting a shadow over the chicken leg I was enjoying, to find a child who has come up and is posing next me while her father is trying inconspicuously to take a picture. She was really cute so I made him take one with my camera too...


Glad I could be of service?

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Top 5 Beijing Favorites

I’ve reached the halfway mark of my time in Beijing, so I thought a little reflection might be appropriate. Top 5 Beijing Favorites:

5)THE DOGS - apparently there are restrictions here for owning dogs (kind of like for owning kids). Each family can only have one and there’s a height limit, so there are a ton of little chihuahuas and poodles and other adorable little guys running around the streets. I think my very favorite might be the one who lives around our Hutong in whose hair are shaved and dyed the Olympic rings. (There’s also a little one who lives on the second floor of our hotel (with the prostitutes?) who will occasionally wander up the stairs to our floor. We’ve learned not to leave anything in the hall, because he will reliably proceed to mark it as his territory).

4) THE OLYMPICS - As demonstrated by the fur of the dog mentioned above, Olympic fever is EVERYWHERE. You can hardly wipe yourself with a piece of toilet paper (when, in the rare case that toilet paper is actually available, that is) without seeing the Olympic emblem on a sponsor’s label or the little Fuwa mascots (funny story here: apparently, the Fuwa were orginially called “The Friendlies,” but Chinese people with poor English pronunciation kept pronouncing them, “The FriendLESS,” so they changed it…).

It’s been really cool watching the city transform to get ready, and everyday there are more and more signs up, English recordings in places, etc… My favorite are the commercials they’re playing on TV. In one, they teach the Chinese people the official national cheer (two claps and then extending the arms while yelling Zhongguo Jia Yo! (Literally, “Add gas, China!” but basically, our “Go!”). This is an attempt to get the culturally reserved Chinese people to actually get excited and express emotion during the games, since they will be the primary spectators. They also have “public manners education” commercials in an attempt to get the public to be more “civilized.” In this commercial they discourage people from spitting on the streets, and demonstrate how to give up your seat for an old person and talk quietly on your cell phone in public areas. It’s hilarious.

They’re also having things like “National No-Spitting Day” and “National Queue Up Day,” to help with the efforts. I’d say the results are mixed. They do have people lining up in the subways (in actually probably the most single-file lines I’ve ever seen, as enforced by “line monitors” who also help push people in when the subways get too crowded for people to force themselves in on their own). But as soon as the train pulls up, those lines dissolve completely and everyone crashes to the doors like it’s the fourth quarter of the super bowl and a fumbled ball lay just on the other side of the doors, (or starved ducks on a piece of bread…I entertain myself on the subways on the way to work by thinking up similes to describe the phenomenon).

3) THE T-SHIRTS AND SIGNS with poorly translated/ seemingly randomly chosen English words. So many excellent ones. I keep meaning to start a list of the best ones I see, but this is definitely one of them:

Elmo. Cookied. Is On. Sesame Street. (with the enhancement of a masquerade mask in sequins)


2) THE PARKS - “Park” is definitely an understatement, as many of these are old imperial gardens of the dynastic emperors. My favorite is Jing Shan, where you can climb up a hill onto a pagoda which overlooks the Forbidden City. The best part though is the people watching there. Older people flock to the park on nice days with their portable speakers and sing (in seemingly competing – they’re all right next to one another) choirs. There are also random flute players nestled along the path of stairs leading up to the top, and of course people playing cards and hackie-sack, and women sitting around gossiping with their fans. The afternoon I spent there was definitely one of my favorites thus far.

Relatedly, the PUBLIC GYMS, which are scattered throughout the city. They look a lot like playgrounds, but if you look closely, they’re filled with exercise equipment. It’s all mechanical though- here’s the Chinese public gym version of a treadmill:

1) PEOPLE WATCHING - Not too much specific to say here, but it’s just fascinating and quickly becoming one of my favorite pastimes. I’m trying to figure out the best way to bring an old Chinese man home with me, so I can just look at him all day and think about how cute he is. And apparently it’s mutual, because we get asked to be taken a photograph of all the time).




To stay realistic, I could easily make a parallel Top 5 Least Favorite things which would include things like the fact that the concept of personal space is non-existent and there is a pervading stench of caused by lack of adequate plumbing which is fairly inescapable, but all in all, this is a pretty sweet place to spend the summer.

Friday, July 18, 2008

"American Culture Day" or Wo xi huan chi PIZZA!

Wednesday from noon to 1pm was glorious, as it was the first "American Culture Day" at Telestone Technologies in Beijing. Translated roughly, this means Pato and I had spotted a Pizza Hut Delivery BIKE (McDonalds also delivers via bike!) the day before and convinced our supervisor that we should order pizza the next day instead of eating at the Chinese cafeteria they take us to. It was a highly entertaining hour as they couldn't get over the fact that we each ordered our own 10 in pizzas ("You eat SO MUCH in America!" "Your pizza is SO BIG!" "The people at the front desk thought we were ordering for the whole office but it is just you two! *stifled giggle) while they ordered one nine inch to split among 4 people. It's really hard to find anything dairy here (well, un-refrigerated milk in a bag is widely available but I usually pass on that and have acquired quite a taste for a strawberry-banana yogurt they sell at a convenience store next to my McDonalds), so my stuff-crust cheese-lovers was possibly my most appreciated meal yet.

My co-workers (from left to right: Cheryl, Shelly, Peter (who I'm so sad is leaving for Indonesia on Sunday!!! He was my favorite :/, Alica (whose MSN name when we first arrived was "loser" - apparently she didn't know what the word meant; she's since changed it after we asked her why exactly she picked that of all names...), and Pato, whose in the program with me and of whom this isn't a particularly great picture. Also, notice their attempts to eat the pizza with chopsticks...

This is Cheryl, my supervisor. She's a hoot and a half. And was SOOOO amused that we could eat as much as we did. She's also infinitely amused by the fact that I'm the tallest girl in the office. And comments on it pretty much everyday...


AND it turns out they're just as bad at using a knife and fork as we are at using chopsticks!!!

Other recent Western food endeavors:
Tim's Texas Roadhouse - the potential for greatness, but in reality pretty bad :/. I did get a sweet T-Shirt though, and a good long glance of the TX flag, which just needs to be looked at every once and a while for a person to be complete...


A Mexican Food restaurant I can't remember the name of that we went for my friend Jorge's birthday last night which was SO good! Or at least by being in Beijing standards...
Mexican Music, Mexican Friend, Mexican Food (I had a burrito too)...


...but the chefs aren't fooling anyone :).

Since this post has turned out to be food themed, I might as well mention that I'm actually growing pretty accustomed to Chinese food at this point, and have even started craving certain items! Heck, I may even miss it when I get home. Good thing I'm living in Wilbur next year ;).

Monday, July 14, 2008

A Weekend with the Inner Mongols

We took off from our lovely hotel Friday afternoon around 6:00 in order to make our 10 hour overnight train ride to Inner Mongolia. We weren’t exactly sitting in the lap of luxury with our “hard sleeper” tickets: non-private compartments each stacked with two sets of triply-bunked beds (i.e. about the same amount of personal space one has in a coffin). Nevertheless, except for the staring (Chinese people ALWAYS stare at us as foreigners, which I’m pretty much used to and am not usually bothered by, but it becomes vastly more disturbing when the stare-er is laying horizontally at eye level two feet away from you for 10 hours on end…) and the borderline violence (is it legal to slap someone who’s asleep to get their ticket from them?) of the train attendants, the ride there was an overall fun and unique experience you can’t get in the US.



We arrived at the train station in the city of Hohhot (the capital of the Inner Mongolian Autonomous Region) to blue sky and fresh, clean, dry air, which were much appreciated after three and a half weeks in Beijing with very, very little of either. After a pretty sweet western-style breakfast at a hotel, we hopped on a bus for a couple of hours’ drive through the Daqing Mountains out to the Grasslands.

We were welcomed at the yurts which were to be our home for the night by singing Mongolians and some sort of Hada liquor that tasted a lot like Robitussin. We then spent the rest of the day getting a taste of Mongolian culture via a horseback riding, wrestling matches, a dinner ceremony complete with (whole) roasted mutton, after dinner party, and a nicely authentic lack of running water J. Horseback riding was especially interesting as our guide assigned me a horse which was apparently on the wilder side and so had to stay attached to his the whole time, so whenever this crazy Mongolian man decided to GALLOP somewhere (no, not trot, not canter, gallop! – I’ve definitely never gone that fast on a horse before) to round up a stray horse or ride to the back of the pack to check on something, I was forcedly RIGHT by his side. My friends supposed that the souvenir t-shirt I was wearing from a faux Tex-Mex place I had insisted on eating at the night before might have convinced him that I knew how to ride, but he didn’t speak English, so whenever he was about to take off, he’d look over at me and yell in Mongolian something which, as I figured out after the first time I nearly ate it, apparently meant “hold on”.



The next day we woke up early for a 4 hour drive to the Kubuqi desert's Xinagsha Wan, or Resonant Sound Gorge. I don't know how exactly authentic of a Mongolian experience it was, as the part we ended up in was more like a theme park set in sand, but it was AWESOME and GORGEOUS. After climbing up a ridiculously steep dune, we boarded an all terrain vehicle for a wild ride through the hills and valleys of sand, rode some camels, and ended the day with an episode of dune sledding before heading back into town for a full-course Chinese meal crunched into 15 minutes (we were running late) and a train ride back to Beijing, where we arrived this morning exhausted, having been starred at for extended periods of time by more fascinated Chinese people, and not having showered for three days (you'd think that would have made them face the other direction at least?!).

Riding the Dune Buggy - better than any roller coaster

"Let the trash back to its home!"


Fun with camels - mine had a sagging hump :/